To
be reviewed/updated -
28.03.2017
On
Earth several
factors must be considered concerning wave frequency and cause. The
time of the year is important as is the axial
tilt (obliquity). Earth revolves at a constant velocity as water
is attracted by gravity towards Moon. There is a ‘bulge’ that
maximises at Moon’s postion (High
Tide) and
diametrically opposite. Between the two (at 90°) there is a minimum
(Low
Tide).
The position will affect the water and tides. Just ahead of Moon is
the deepest point and this depth can be used to track Moon. Or the
other way around. As Earth turns this (HT-LT-HT-LT)
arrangement
remains as Moon moves
slowly
ahead relative to Earth. The turning-away Earth makes it appear
that Moon is slower, receding towards the west.
The
seas move with Earth (Moon’s gravity is insufficient to overwhelm
Earth’s hold on the water.) This Earth-water combination results in
a wave that causes
the
observed tides. The reason the ‘bulge’ moves ahead of Moon is
probably a combination of the distance between Earth-Moon, the delay,
and the revolution of Earth resulting in a dimishing gravitational
attraction.
Moon
travels slightly faster than Earth (30.731km/s
v. 29.786km/s = 0.945km/s),
but
Earth is also revolving eastwards (anti-clockwise
or West to East)
from Moon (1668km/h
at
the equator, 0.00km/h at a pole)
as
it orbits the Sun. The sea (water) moves around with Earth and the total depth will
produce a roughly constant value. This can be demonstrated by adding FM
(full
Moon),
LQ (last
quarter),
NM (new
Moon)
and FQ
(first
quarter) depths
together for the same place. Considering high tide (HT) depths over
all four phases throughout
2011
it
is seen that
HTs
at Margate (FM)
are around midnight. The second HTs
are always about midday. HTs
for LQ
and FQ
are approximately 6hr
later
and are dependent on the Earth-Moon interplanetary distance and the
axial tilt.
There
is a gradual lessening of tidal depth between FM
(or NM)
and these intermediate quarters since Moon becomes the principal
gravitational attractant. At the FM
of Dec (10.12.2011),
the Sun is nearest and in-line at
perihelion
(Winter
Solstice = 22.12.2011). The shallowest tide will be at Sun aphelion
(furthest) (Summer
solstice =
21.06.2011). At FQ
or LQ in
June (2010/2011),
again with Sun/Moon at 90°, Moon is the principal attractant. The gravitational influence of the Sun is constant throughout a lunation (FM →
LQ →
NM → FQ) except at a (FM) lunar eclipse when Earth blocks Sun → Moon. Moon gravity matched with Earth's rotation cause the tides and the total time (4
quarters FM,
LQ,
NM,
FQ)
always adds to around 24h.
The tide (wave) movement can be seen in the behaviour of anchored ships/boats
(one anchor at the bow). The front of the vessel points into the deepening water, but the waves of an incoming/outgoing tide will always be toward the shore and maybe up to 90° of the flow of water. The erection of a tent by a central pole illustrates the motion - the upward direction is to the centre regardless of the perimeter (edge).
There is an important distinction between the two types of wave. The one around the Earth (two waves: deepest → shallowest → deepest → shallowest = 24h) and those approaching/receding from the shore (frequency is generally 4-5 seconds). This frequency may be related to Earth → Moon distance (unknown).The origin of these waves is not (yet) known, though notably large lakes that are not tidal do not exhibit such a wave nature. A reasonable conclusion is that the two types of wave (12h x 2 = 24h and 4-5 second in/out nature during tides) are related.
The
mass of water that moves is billions and billions of tons and a
smooth movement is highly improbable given that the underwater ground
surface is not itself smooth. Immovable land masses create enormous
buffeting around the planet and these land masses occur at very
irregular locations. The water will crash into itself differently at
myriad places and result in enormous turbulence on a global scale.
There could never be any synchronisation over such a vast area of
water.
Water
finds its own level and a following wind will have an effect. One
must move, though not necessarily smoothly, into the other. The speed
of the water (different depths vary = velocity gradient) is (perhaps)
not enough (or shallow enough) to collapse the wave and form a
‘breaker’. The depth of the water is critical. Insufficient depth
and the water will not remain stable. A surface wind can accelerate
the surface water and create small local breakers. The velocity
gradient is exceeded.
Waves
can be a relatively short width and this depends on the underwater
terrain: a narrow channel or large and deep canyon. Any sort of
trench whatever its size will funnel water as the tide comes in and
the resulting wave can, therefore, be massive or small. The wave is a
measure of the changing amplitude of water in that particular region
and generally deeper water will exhibit a swell. In shallower areas,
breaking waves manifest - the surface water moves faster than at
depth (at
or near the ground) and
results in a collapsing wave.